Downtown Las Vegas is on the up

Tilting my fedora at a rakish angle, I affect a gangster pose and swagger into the Mob Museum in Las Vegas. I'm greeted by Oscar Goodman, the former mayor of Vegas, who dreamt up the whole idea. I'd first met Oscar at a reception in London, flanked by two leggy Vegas showgirls. Back then, he had told the assembled guests: "I used to be the mayor. Before that, I was the lawyer to the mob. And now, I sleep with the mayor." (The current mayor is Oscar's wife, Carolyn Goodman.)

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